Elvis Costello usually doesn't just throw records out there. Momofuku, which takes its name from the inventor of instant noodles, is different. It's effortfully tossed off; it's a middling record battling against his built-in high standards. For a record bashed out in a week, Momofuku is not bare-bones. It has up to four backup singers and nine musicians at any given time, and sometimes a bit of space noise and backward effects in the guitars — the kind of thing done by indie-rockers with time on their hands. But Costello allows imperfection with a small and squalid electric-guitar tone, his voice cracking and occasionally turning flat.