Released only in vinyl and by Internet download, the new Elvis Costello may be stirring controversy, because Costello knows his sophisticated rock has evolved beyond the marketplace and he needs all the help he can get. Costello has made another minor masterpiece. Momofuku is a dozen new songs, backed by longtime associates Steve Nieve, Pete Thomas and Davey Faragher of the Imposters, with a handful of other players. The songs use the rock ensemble format with utter confidence and conviction, and Costello's detail elevates the whole enterprise. It's not just his command of the rock band idiom or his nuanced vocals but also the degree of personal expression he brings to these thorny pieces. From the dark sound of "Turpentine" to the wordplay of "Pardon Me, Madam, My Name Is Eve" (co-written by Loretta Lynn), Costello imprints everything with brilliance.