This is easily the stand-out track from Costello's Mighty Like A Rose LP, the one that was crying out for single release (not that it'll chart — Elvis is clearly between audiences right now). "So Like Candy" was co-written by Paul McCartney, no prisonable offence in itself, and welds a typically inscrutable series of put-downs to the sort of complex orchestral accompaniment Elvis has largely avoided since Imperial Bedroom.
Back in 1986, just as reports were filtering through that Costello was all washed-up, bloated, on the skids, he silenced rumour-mongerers with his stunning King Of America /Blood & Chocolate double salvo. On the sleeve of "So Like Candy", however, our (ex-)hero corroborates recent evidence that he's turning into Van Morrison, all multiple chins and scarecrow hair. This gorgeously crooned and gently withering harangue suggests that Elvis' curmudgeonly old bugger phase may produce some of his best work yet.